I needed to go surfing with you guys to understand what the sport really is about.
The most fantastic thing about it is the kick. We are so addicted to these experiences and lifetime adventures. The fear and joy, pure excitement and the speed of freedom becomes part of our basic needs. It makes us even better persons. By learning from each other, emotions open up our souls and connect them in a very intimite and pure way. This kind of love. It’s a great gift from our planet to make this all happen.
Sometimes tricky things happen. While being princesses on our boards we could easily feel superior. The ego is very common in every sport scene. We want to see ourselves in the coolest videos, we talk about the latest techniques, the newest designs. We wanna look cool while riding and pray these images of our evergreen days will be untouchable.
There’s only one thing that can make our dreams come true. It’s not our cool images, slick boards, sticky wax, thick wetsuits and grippy shoes that keeps us riding. We can’t get enough of going into the wild and play with grumpy Mother Nature. It’s the mountains which are so sexy are beautiful, the water that can look evil with high dark waves while the next day the green water winks at us and gives only flatty’s. Sharing these experiences with nature is what bonds us and keeps us riding.
My friends, I think you all past the test of this sort of life a long time ago. You all look after each other and respect the mountains and the ocean. Therefore I’m happy you chicks were part of my adventures so far. I hope we will share many more 🙂
Later when we’re old and grumpy like Mother Nature we will still have these GoPro video’s, pictures of us in bikini and crashes in the snow. And you know what…I think we will still feel evergreen by then.